Everything You Need to Know About Gold Jewellery (Without the Confusion!)

 

There’s no denying the magic of gold. Its glow, its beauty, and its timeless appeal have made it one of the most loved materials in jewellery for centuries. It feels special, it looks incredible, and if you choose the right kind, it will last you a lifetime. 

 But here’s the thing: the term “gold jewellery” gets thrown around a lot these days, and not always honestly. Some brands call their pieces “gold” when really, they’re just gold-coloured or actually made with lesser quality materials. No wonder it’s confusing. Gold is a precious metal and has been prized for thousands of years because it combines rarity, beauty, and durability, but can often be interchanged with Silver and put at the same price point even though the cost is around 80-100 times more expensive than silver (but more on sterling silver another day).

As someone who designs and creates jewellery, I’ve had so many conversations with people who thought they were buying “gold” only to find out later it was plated brass that tarnished once the gold wore away. It’s not your fault—brands often aren’t clear about what you’re actually buying.

So, let’s clear this up once and for all, I want to arm you with all the right information so you can be in the know and make educated purchases that you will be satisfied with. I’m going to explain the differences between gold plated, gold vermeil, and solid gold—what they actually are, how they wear, and the pros and cons of each. That way, you can choose pieces that suit your style, your budget, and your expectations—without any surprises later.

Solid Gold

Now, this is the real deal. Solid gold means your piece is made of gold through and through (with some other metals mixed in for strength—pure gold is too soft to wear every day).

Here’s what the different karats mean:

·       24k = 100% pure gold (but way too soft for most jewellery!)

·       22k = 92% pure gold 

·       18k = 75% pure gold

·       14k = 58.3% pure gold

·       9k = 37.5% pure gold

My personal favourite for rings? 14k. It’s strong enough to wear every day but still rich and golden.

Why is solid gold worth the investment?

·       It lasts forever (literally).

·       It won’t tarnish, fade, or rub off—what you see is what you get.

·       It holds its value over time (increases over time, actually).

·       You can wear it every single day without worry.

·       It’s hypoallergenic and great for sensitive skin.

·       It can also be melted down and remodelled into a new piece.

Yes, it costs more upfront—but it’s truly a “buy once, wear forever” option.

 

Let's take a look at some of the other types of ‘Gold’· 

Gold Plated

Gold-plated jewellery starts with a base metal (like brass or copper) and is then dipped into an electroplating solution, which contains solid gold. The electric current then causes a thin layer of the gold to stick to the base metal. That layer is super thin and will wear away with time, especially on pieces you wear a lot, like rings.

Once the gold wears off, the base metal underneath shows through, which is where the skin reactions or tarnishing happen. Brass and Copper are both common base metals used in plated jewellery and will react with your skin, and can leave green marks.

A micron is a unit of measurement equal to one-millionth of a metre (or 0.001 mm) (how thick the gold coating is). Gold Plated: Usually less than 0.5 microns.

Gold Vermeil

Gold vermeil is basically gold plating—but on top of sterling silver instead of brass. It also has a thicker layer of gold than standard plating (usually 2.5 microns or more), which makes it last a bit longer.

It’s a step up in quality, and it’s a good option if you can’t wear base metals because silver is hypoallergenic. But keep in mind: it’s still plating, so it will wear off eventually. You can’t really polish it like solid metals because that would remove the plating altogether.

Gold-Filled

Gold-filled is a tricky name, as it isn’t how it seems. It is not as it sounds, filled with gold. It is a base metal (copper or brass) which then has a layer of solid gold pressure bonded to it using heat. On the plus side, this material generally contains a thicker layer of gold, so it will generally last a little longer. The amount of gold is roughly 1/20^th of the total weight.

As a jeweller, when you sand, file, or polish a gold-filled piece, you’re physically removing material from the surface. Because the gold layer is not solid all the way through, you will wear through the gold and expose the base metal underneath; therefore, it isn’t suitable in most jewellery-making situations.

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Here’s a Quick Comparison of all the different options above:

Type	What It Is	Durability	Maintenance	Price
Solid Gold	Gold all the way through	Excellent	Low	$$$
Gold-Filled	Layer of gold mechanically bonded to base metal	High	Medium	$$
Gold Vermeil	Sterling silver with a thick gold layer	Moderate	Medium	$$
Gold Plated	Base metal with a thin gold layer	Low	High	$
Brass	Copper + zinc alloy	Moderate	High	$

The Bottom Line

None of these options is “bad”—they all have their place. It just depends on your budget, how often you plan to wear the piece, and how much maintenance you’re okay with.

Plated or gold-filled pieces are great for fun, trendy jewellery you might not want forever. But if you’re looking for something you’ll wear daily for years—or even pass down—solid gold is absolutely worth it.

At the end of the day, I believe in being honest about what you’re buying. That way, you can choose pieces that really suit you and avoid disappointment down the track.